Wine's Obituary

Unless you're in the business or were one of the remaining subscribers, you probably had no idea that the Quarterly Review of Wine recently ceased publication.  In fact, you probably didn't even know there was a Quarterly Review of Wine.  And you definitely didn't know that wine died some months ago.

Started in 1977, QRW was a faithful companion to wine lovers who valued the essence of wine.  The format, writing, and photography were all world class.  Substantive profiles of people and regions, and the periodic Best Of collections of wines stood in the stead of the seemingly standard 60% advertising and reams of numerical rankings that constitute much of today's mainstream print wine publications.  Even the fact that it was published seasonally was a welcome, more civilized alternative to monthly statistical barrages. In short, it was a great magazine.

So, why no more QRW?  As my friend Jim Hickey is fond of saying, our greatest strengths in their extreme are often our greatest weaknesses.  Advertising pays the bills; bills which grow with the quality of content.  My guess is that QRW had less of the former and plenty of the latter.  If that is the case, they are joining the ranks of many other publications that have gone the way of the mastodon and woolly mammoth.  But to read the publisher tell the story, they threw in the towel because wine - at least as he knows it - is dead.

Publisher Richard L. Elia's scathing indictment of the "soulless" industry's deliberate, capitalist strangulation of wine reads like the recounting of a ship's scuttling by a salty captain forced to watch it go down.  He lashes out at everyone and everything from Parker to technology to restaurants. ("Nothing has contributed to wine’s romantic deterioration more than restaurant music.")  He decries the death of civility and culture along with that of wine.  He even takes a few swipes at sommeliers and educators.  Mostly, though, he's got a beef with modernity.  That, and he's pissed that his publication is no longer.

This rant - and it's not a stretch to call it that - reads like sour grapes (pardon the pun) from a bitter codger pining for the romance of a simpler time.  Understandable.  But if you look beyond the pith, Mr. Elia makes some pretty good points.  He's right that the demographic that once was wine's mainstay has exchanged romance over a bottle of wine for his and hers cell phones at the dinner table.  On this point there's a lot more to mourn over than just wine's decline. 

But what he's missing is that with wine's evolution, an entirely new population of younger, enthusiastic drinkers has been reached.  No, they don't demonstrate their passion in any way that Mr. Elia or his contemporaries can relate to, but they are no less passionate.  Moreover, within this younger demographic, the trend is away from using consolidated numerical rankings - something he laments - and towards trusting more personalized recommendations as the source for buying guidance.  This would not be possible without the proliferation of the same inexpert writers (no offense taken) he bemoans.  There playing field is also more level than it has ever been, allowing smaller regions and wineries better access to the global market than ever before.  These are very good things.

Maybe wine isn't dead, after all.Ten years or so from now the Millennial generation will be the bread and butter of every producer.  How they decide to experience wine is up to them.  As upset as Elia is, it is unfair to impose on others our own standards or judge what makes them smile.




Later this year QRW will publish a book of the Best Of The Best articles from the last 35 years.  In the meantime, QRW.comwill continue to publish the popular “Best of The Best Wine Tastings” of current vintages of major varietals.

And Now, Back To Wine: Winter Warmers

Those of us fortunate enough to live in a part of the world that gets a real change of seasons know the cycle of change well.  As we retire our raking for the year and exchange shorts for thermals, our bodies and psyches settle in for the quiet season.

If only we could hibernate.

Part of the change this ritual cycle brings is in our diet.  Crates of plump tomatoes are replaced by bins of acorn and butternut squash at the market.  Mushrooms, legumes, and risottos make more regular appearances than during the grilling months.  With this slow ebb into winter, our wine drinking palates also change.  Sauvignon blanc, a front porch favorite on hot evenings, hasn't been seen for months now.  Even Zinfandel is a distant memory, exchanged for heavier reds: Syrah, Petite Sirah, Cabs, and stout Spaniards from southern climes.

But this year there's been a strong leaning towards reds from the Old World in our household.  Chalk it up to the cold weather menus: more lamb and veal, sauces, and generally hearty fare.  This is unusual in a home that enjoys a steady diet of California and southern hemisphere bottlings.  Examining the recycling bin these last few weeks, what looked at first to be an anomaly has emerged as a theme.  Rioja, Chianti, Bordeaux, Southern Rhone, Piedmont.  Acidity on display.  Not only that, but many at lower alcohol, too.

The idea that higher alcohol (13.5%+) wines are more difficult to enjoy doesn't hold much sway with me.  But as we enjoyed a light Bordeaux with a comfort dish recently, the combination of nuanced, lingering acidity and the absence of another couple of percentage points made for a pleasant change of pace.  Will this new found infatuation come at the expense of long-time steady companions?  Hardly, especially given my current fascination with the many faces of California Syrah.  But the inclusion of Old World reds in the rotation has been a bright spot during these overcast weeks.

Sure, New World reds have acid, too, though often they are more of a heavy-handed veneer imparted by over-oaking than the gently integrated lace found in Europe.  Here are some lovely value-priced Italian reds the smart consumer will look for to help you out of whatever winter rut you're in:

2009 La Maialina Chianti $10 - This wine is available in the straight Chianti, a Chianti Classico, and a Chianti Classico Riserva.  All are lovely, delivering smooth, bright fruit and hunger quenching acids.  Complexity and sophistication increase as you go up the price spectrum to the Riserva, which is flat out fantastic.

2007 Tenuta Moneti Caburnio $17 - This blend needs a couple of hours in the decanter before it'll sing for you, but once it does, you'll listen closely.  Structured and layered, it's a leaner, more complex alternative for typical fruit-driven Cabernet.  Repeat offender.

2008 San Silvestro Brumo Nebbiolo $14 - From a tiny hilltop town at the epicenter of Barolo country, this highly accessible drink is a great place to start your Piedmontese addiction.  Easy going, super compatible, and wallet-friendly.

Social Media, Again

A frequent (and therefore stale) debate among wine writers is the value of social media in promoting wines.  On the one side is the establishment, basically saying that social media is a distraction that will never amount to anything.  (Remember when Kodak said that digital was just a flash in the pan?)  On the other side is, well, everyone else who isn't threatened by this irreversible evolution.

In the most recently sparked round of this silly cry for help, the establishment is played by Steve Heimoff, a Wine Enthusiast writer of rather ordinary caliber.  And the other side is played by Joe Roberts, an equally ordinary, but forward looking writer Heimoff would probably refer to as "a blogger, not a real writer" (though not to his face).

Watching the virtual sparring in the comments sections of these websites is super fun - if you're a wine writer...and you know these characters...and you are bored out of your mind.  Otherwise, it's pretty rote. 

Since you've read this far, you must qualify as at least some of the above, so why cover it again?  Because, Joe's right: wineries are stuck in the past.  And why should consumers care?  Because engagement benefits consumers by enhancing the product consumption experience.  Sound fluffy?  This is no bullshit.

Let's recap on the main conclusions from last summer's article on SoMed:

• 98% of the content generated on social media is complete crap
• 1% is targeted advertising via tweets and news feeds available to companies on a shoestring budget - a way to get people sampling and talking about your product 
• The other 1% is where the magic happens: companies actually dialoging with their customers
• Social media monitoring tools like SocialOomph allow companies to filter through the 98% to see what corresponds to them - or their competition
• Then, the very nature of the platforms let them engage customers directly
• Done properly (which basically means not coming off as a pervert), engagement converts into repeat business, customer loyalty, viral exposure to their target market, increased brand equity, etc.
• All of this is available at zero cash outlay and very little time spent.

So, will wine businesses not leveraging Twitter and Facebook soon be extinct? No.  But the real question is, and this is what Joe gets at in his piece today, why aren't more wineries leveraging social media?

Because, despite having heard this drum beat before, many wineries are part of the same establishment that señor Heimoff works so hard to remain a part of.

The Long Drive Home: 2010 Chateauneuf du Papes

A local distributor hosted a trade tasting of 2010 Chateauneuf du Papes recently.  Not too many people on the retail side of the consumer equation know what these trade events are like, so here's a brief look at just one angle - and two wines of uncommon caliber.

Along the periphery of a warmly appointed hall are about a dozen tables manned by winemakers, owners, and marketing representatives.  They are pouring their wines; sheepishly, expectantly.  Their English is as spotty as the guests' French, but they are sincere and try desperately to explain their wines even though the wine is there to speak for itself.  Most of the people in the room have some sort of decision making authority over purchasing for a restaurant or retail store.  It's quite the demographic cross section: some are in suits, some are hipsters, and some just look bored.  They're there to see what's what, to see if there are any wines which they can sell to their own customers in this challenging market.  With noses in glasses, they perform many complex calculations based on myriad factors: cost, retail, mark-up, points, availability, customer wish lists, etc.



From left: Bruno Boisson of Domaine Boisson translating, Tom Johnson of Lousiville Juice, and rockstar Olivier Hillaire

For practical purposes, you have to go in with a realistic objective.  There are something like 80 wines being tasted at this event - almost all Chateauneuf du Papes.  As a writer with limited intake capacity and a long drive home, strategy is important.  So, you go in with a goal: to get a baseline on the 2010 vintage in Southern Rhone.  You go in there thinking, "Yeah, I'll taste some, see what the commonalities are, see what the common thread is.  Then I can write it up in a nice, neat package."  But this is the Rhone, and this is Grenache, and Syrah, and Mourvedre, and a bunch of other grapes.  It's complicated.  Thirteen different varietals can be used in Chateauneuf du Pape, not to mention the stylistic differences from plot to plot of land and between producers.

What ends up happening is that you don't get a baseline.  There's too much variety, too much diversity.  The wines are so very different.  There's just too much confusion.  Or identity.  Or individualism.  Whatever - it can't be wrapped up in a nice little package.  Once you realize that and your palate confirms it, you take a deep breath and relax.  Better to resign yourself to limits and make the most of it. 

So? 

So, suddenly you find yourself squinting through the crowd at two little wines in opposite corners of the room.  Their winemakers look nervous.  Crowds are thin around their tables, at first anyway.  Word gets a round quick, though.  You fall in love with these wines at first whiff and, the moment you take that deep breath of resignation, you fall in deep.  These are the brilliant ones: brilliantly crafted and brilliant in the way they affect you.  These are special wines, indeed.  These are the ones I'm taking home with me. 

In my heart anyway. 

Because, frankly, as desperately as I want - need - three cases of each, I can barely afford a bottle of each.  The trouble is, these wines will haunt me - not only for the long drive home, but for weeks.  I will lie awake attempting to rationalize the expense, failing every time, but trying again and again.

What wines could have this effect?  Here are two:  Olivier Hillaire's

absolutely stunning 100% Grenache from 107 year old vines, for one.  This was the rockstar of the event and as things wound down, Olivier's nervous fidgeting had given way to contagious exuberance, thanks no doubt to the fawning of many new believers.  Olivier, my friend, you have nothing to be nervous about.

2010 Domaine Olivier Hillaire Chateauneuf-du-Pape 'les Petits Pieds d'Armand' $100 

The other, perhaps more evocative was Mireille Porte's 'Feminessance' bottling.  Beyond extraordinary and almost as lovely as the winemaker herself.  This highly sophisticated wine is both powerful and feminine at the same time.  Surprisingly accessible yet promising of ageworthiness, this eye-popping beauty represented the best value of all - even at a retail price of $70.

2010 Domaine Tour Saint-Michel Chateauneuf-du-Pape 'Feminessance' $70

These are the wines I will look forward to encountering again, if only by chance.  But more importantly, they've reinvigorated my ideal, my outlook, and my hope for wines everywhere. 

Oh, the famous La Vieux Donjon?  Meh.  Thin and celery-flavored. 



In the final analysis, though a real baseline was elusive, a few expectations were unseated:

• To a palate that has been enjoying a steady diet of California and Italy at the expense of France (and other regions), the wines were way better than expected.
• There was far more international, modern style than expected - and far more accessibility, too.
• Alas, they were also more expensive than imagined.


Early Signs Of Spring: CGT Dry Riesling

Review: 2010 Chateau Grand Traverse Dry Riesling $13

This drum has been beat here before, but overcoming consumers' preconceptions about wines' provenance requires persistent messaging.  To that end...

Get your hands on some Old Mission Peninsula Alsatian whites: Rieslings, Pinot Blancs, and Pinot Gris. 

Get your hands on some Old Mission Peninsula Alsatian whites: Rieslings, Pinot Blancs, and Pinot Gris.

Get your hands on some Old Mission Peninsula Alsatian whites: Rieslings, Pinot Blancs, and Pinot Gris.

Really?  This is northern Michigan?

Okay, so you got the point.  But even as this region gains deserved recognition from writers like Bruce Schoenfeld (Travel + Leisure) and Eric Asimov (New York Times), lifting wine drinkers out of their ruts of routine is an uphill battle.  Still, I'd wager that it'd only take one bottle like this to get your attention.  

Chateau Grand Traverse, the area's largest winery, does a terrific job of encapsulating what this region is capable of.  Quite consistently, too.

(Full disclosure: this wine was received as a press sample.)

I hadn't realized how much of a toll the recent miserable weather had taken until I popped this open.  Every time I've had this wine it's been a pleasure - and this vintage is no exception.  Lifting the fog of winter, the 2010 Dry Riesling offers a glimpse of spring's promise channeled in laser focus.  Balanced, fresh, and voluptuous, there is equal surplus of complexity and plain old drinkability.  Delivering a mouthful of fruit and finishing crisp, glasses are drained quickly.  And at around $13, this represents a flat out stellar value. 

Smart consumers will get off the sidelines and put seek out the whites of the Old Mission Peninsula, this one in particular.

Getting The Most Out Of Your Pinot Noir

Anyone who's fallen under the spell of good Pinot Noir knows well the cost of infatuation.  Once you've experienced the haunting clarity of this delicate variety, settling for anything short of exciting is nearly unthinkable.  Yet we try.  Again and again.  Why when there are so many other wines being made well at reasonable prices?  Well, primarily because we are cheapskates.  And because we fancy ourselves explorers, prospectors searching for gems as yet unveiled by points accolades.  Most of all, though, the spell is a heavy trance that lingers no matter how much distraction we pursue.

Like the tides follow the lunar cycle, tastes go through ruts and plains and plateaus, occasionally sparked by brief, unexpected adventures to terrific heights.  It's those moments, staring into a glass - or eyes closed - that we marvel at the allure and surrender to the thing that is wine.  Sure, there are other suitors with similar spells to cast: perfumed Barolo, soul-shaking Syrah, peaking Bordeaux....we each have our own mistresses.  But there is only one after which we all pine: Pinot.

Pinot Noir at Vine Hill Winery

Damn it anyhow.

What's a boy to do (when he doesn't have scratch pads made of Benjamins)?  Enter the unicorn: affordable Pinot.  Regrettably, this piece is not a revelatory list of previously unheard of bottlings.  I wish.  Rather, a thought, a suggestion on how the siren might be coaxed out below the twenty dollar mark.

Next time you've brought home that bottle for which you have a secret hope, give it some time.  She's fickle and she's temperamental, all right, but she's also shy.  Over hundreds of non-scientific experiments I have found that to the patient go the spoils.  Last night's subject was the 2009 Decoy Pinot Noir Anderson Valley.  A fine little wine thankfully missing its predecessor's (the 2008 vintage) tarring smoke (lots of fires in Mendocino in 2008), this was nothing to write home about - or pour down the drain.  But after 6 hours decanted, something changed.  The not-so-ugly duckling jumped in her fancy carriage and rode up to the ball. 

Okay, so I'm mixing metaphors and fairy tales, but, seriously, the change was miraculous.  Of course, by the time this discovery was made, there was half a glass of it left.  Am I suggesting that the Decoy is a world class Pinot if only given 6 hours decanted?  Not really.  But I am predicting that few, if any Pinots, will suffer form that length of time.  Give it a try and perhaps you'll agree.  But remember to open another wine (a white, perhaps?) at the same time, so you'll have something to drink while you wait for the swan to arrive.

Cheers

A Season Of Plenty: Osso Buco, Wine, and Gratitude

In lieu of resolutions, prognostications, top 10 lists, or the year in review; a long sigh of satisfaction and a languid resistance to lurch forward...

With the holidays behind us and the New Year starting in earnest now, it's only a matter of days before life's treadmill resumes its just-faster-than-manageable pace.  There is much to look forward to, but the comfort of the recently relished holidays lingers heavily.  I don't want it to end, though evidence of the calendar's merciless march is everywhere.  Our families have returned home.  The decorations have all been put away.  The army of empty bottles have been marched to the curb in overflowing recycling bins.  Silence fills the spaces where laughter had taken up residence these past couple of weeks.

Denial is futile, though fresh memories hold a more powerful allure than the crispness of reality.  Phrases spoken over the holidays replay in my head, reigniting the emotions that only find purchase in a prolonged break.  A deep breath and a second to pause is all it takes to travel back to the noisy, wonderful flashes.

Here are a few of those notions worth carrying forward into the blistering race we already know as 2012.

"It's been said that the key to a happy life lies in stringing together many small things to look forward to."  There is an implicit resolution in this, and it's an important reminder to not only live in the moment, but to make those moments so much a part of our routine that we plan them into our daily lives.  We can easily incorporate this into our appreciation of wine by putting bottles on the calendar.  For example, on February 8th, which is a meaningless date in our household, we'll be opening a bottle of 2000 La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion.  There are 5 weeks of anticipation and meal planning to enjoy between now and then. February 8th promises to be anything but meaningless this year.

"If not now, when?"  Who among us hasn't been sitting on a special bottle(s) for too long?  Yet I'll bet there's no specific event those bottles are being saved for.  What are we waiting for if not the company of those we love?  And how about applying it beyond wine to other "special occasion" luxuries?  Lingerie Tuesdays, perhaps.

"The lion of contentment has placed a warm heavy paw on my chest." Finally, and perhaps most emotionally reassuring, is this line.  Though osso buco never made it on the menu, this excerpt from Billy Collins' poem named after the dish conjures the imagery of gratitude and satisfaction that blanketed the holidays in our home.

But tonight, the lion of contentment
has placed a warm heavy paw on my chest,
and I can only close my eyes and listen
to the drums of woe throbbing in the distance
and the sound of my wife's laughter
on the telephone in the next room

(Read the whole thing here.  Really.)

Even with these notions on heavy rotation, we'll all eventually surrender to the new year and its madness.  But with any luck, it'll be a new year full of perspective and plenty.

Happy New Year everyone!

Parlay: What Every Wine Drinker Wanted For Christmas

Brian Graham is the winemaker behind the Ramian Estate, Canard, and Parlay labels.  Extroverted and boisterous, Brian's not a guy you easily forget meeting.  The magic he has extracted from the Canard Estate fruit is well documented on this site and his Ramian bottlings have an ardent following.  Parlay is a venture into the more approachable end of the price spectrum.

But just because the wine is more modestly priced than his other labels doesn't mean that it isn't what you'd expect from a guy like Brian: full tilt.

(Disclosure: This wine was received as a press sample.)

2009 Parlay Red Wine 'The Bookmaker' California $20
On the surface, this is a fun little wine, but that changes quickly after sip number two.  While of medium body and density, the flavor structure of this wine runs deep; soft, round, precious.  Layers of baritone, meandering fruit take you on a journey that swirls along a languid, comforting path to contentment.  Versatile as a contemplative wine, social accompaniment, or with all manner of foods, this is something of a Swiss Army Knife wine - only draped in crushed velvet and sitting in a well worn mitt leather chair.  Wow.  If it had a smidgen more density or heft or tannins - and was labeled as being from Napa (70% of it is), it'd probably be triple the price, but probably no more enjoyable.  A stellar wine at a fair price.

Bravo, Brian.  Bravo.

Merry Christmas (And What We'll Be Drinking)

Merry Christmas everybody!

Here's hoping that at some point over these holidays you'll have a moment to pause amidst the insanity long enough to take stock and enjoy the warmth of contentment with a good glass of wine.  Looking ahead at the wrapping, cleaning, and cooking that awaits, moments of reflection like that appear elusive.  But one thing is for certain: we will be fortunate to have our dinner table surrounded by family.  And no matter how crazy we make each other, we are damn lucky to have one another.

Adding to our blessings is the gift of delicious wine.  Not only is it a wonderful accompaniment to the meal and a social lubricant, it helps to smooth out whatever wrinkles beleaguer us.  Despite the stresses (good and bad) ushered in by the holidays, we tend to be more forgiving with a heartwarming red in hand.  To be sure that forgiveness and gratitude overfloweth at our table, we've secured a Jerobam of Bogle Phantom. 

Is it the best wine we've had this year?  Certainly not.  But it is just as certainly a crowd-pleasing, heart warming wine that, in its huge bottle, will be a fun addition to the celebration.

Whatever you're drinking, we wish you a Merry Christmas!

9 Awesome Things About Champagne

As a follow up to the recent piece extolling the virtues of everyday bubbly (or, more accurately, bubbly every day), the following points offer compelling logic on why you should get off the sidelines and start drinking bubbly as part of your regular imbibing repertoire:

1. Even inexpensive Champagne can make you feel like a millionaire.
2. Non-occasions are transformed into spontaneous memories with a bottle of bubbly.
3. It is perfectly acceptable to drink with breakfast.
4. It is a very elegant drink.  Just ask Princess Kate.
5. It is a very macho beverage.  Just ask James Bond.
6. Speaking in a foreign accent comes naturally while drinking Champagne: British, French, oligarchical Russian...(just not Canadian.)  If your companions have had enough, they won't care.
7. It induces laughter.  Try frowning while drinking Champagne.  Just try.  I dare you.
8. It goes with anything: caviar, chocolate, scrambled eggs...even gossip and reality TV.
9. It'll hold its bubbles for a few days.  If you don't finish a bottle, cork it back up real tight (with a still wine cork) and repeat the fun a day or two later.
10. Wine author extraordinaire at the New York Times and uber kung-fu master (aikido and jujutsu, actually) Eric Asimov just penned a piece confessing that "I drink them year round, with all sorts of foods, for any occasion, but more important, for no occasion at all."  Gotta love his mojo.
    
    
    
    

Okay, so that's ten, not nine.  Whatevs.  What's your favorite thing about Champange?

Champagne: God's Antidote To Boredom

Holiday Sparkling Wine Roundup

The holiday season accounts for a huge percentage of every year's sparkling wine sales.  How much exactly, I do not know, but let's assume that it's north of 50% - probably more than 75% if you include Valentine's Day - with the balance likely spread across the summertime wedding/anniversary season.  The supply side of the wine business knows this rhythm and stages its promotional efforts around the calendar spikes.  So, it's no surprise that a selection of sparkling wines shows up in the weeks right around Thanksgiving every year.

Of the wide variety that ends up in the samples rack, Frederick Wildman's always seems to be the most fun - and deliberately diverse. This year is no exception, with some familiar names and one fantastic surprise.

Before getting into the specific wines, a brief digression.  Used to be that I never cared for sparkling wine.  "Instant hangover", I'd say, and hear echoed from friends and family already too familiar with the day after maladies.  But after years of tasting through dozens of Champagnes, Proseccos, Franciacortas, Cavas, and domestic sparklers, I've grown to appreciate this undervalued category of wine.  More importantly, I've become a huge advocate of enjoying these wines during off-peak times of the year.  Opening the bottle often makes the occasion special and is way more fun than waiting for a day special enough to warrant a celebratory bottle.
 
So, while it's natural to be looking for recommendations on what Champagnes to enjoy at the holidays, these will surely brighten any day.  And, thanks to the plethora of low cost/high quality sparkling wine, you don't need to break the bank to pop away the ho-hum routine.  Cheers!

(Full disclosure: These wines were received as a press samples.)

NV Pol Roger Brut Reserve 'White Foil' $50
Expectations are high with this one.  Between the elegant packaging and the fact that this was the Champagne served at the royal wedding earlier this year.  Stunning looking in the glass.  Platinum blond with the tiniest pearl bubbles streaming from stem to surface.  Racy bouquet that begs to be tasted.  Assertive attack that delivers waves of grace and strength in pure, delicious flavors.  Its finish surprises in length and, generosity, and consistency.  Expectations met, if not exceeded!

NV Lamberti Prosecco Veneto $14
As spirited and approachable as an Italian on holiday.  Medium-bodied and with lovely balance, this is an easy one to come back to.  While the finish if short, it is thankfully crisp and very dry.  Ridiculous value.

NV Maison JJ Vincent Crémant de Bourgogne $23
This Burgundian example is made from 100% Chardonnay - and it shows. Even if it isn't from the Champagne region, this is the epitome of French bubbly: refined and elegant. Full flavored with a dab more fruit than most Bruts, there's a lot that's easy to like about this unequivocal crowd pleaser, not the least of which is the price point.

NV Trapiche Extra Brut Mendoza $16
Bubbly for wine drinkers. Large bubbles form a frothy head on the pour. Intense and concentrated Chardonnay flavors. Enjoyable, though so strong it'll overpower lighter fare such as oysters. 120 days on lees - and it shows.

Current Releases: Pine Ridge

A couple of years ago I had the chance to attend an industry party at Pine Ridge.  It was put on by some PR firm from down in LA.  The caves had been lit up with mood lights and dotted with lounge furniture that looked like it was borrowed from a night club.  The whole scene was uber hip and a little distracting, if not at odds with what I thought was Pine Ridge's feel.  You know, stewards of the land, pillars of the community, champions of sustainability - all that.  But the wine, the wine, all from Stag's Leap producers, was insanely good.  Somehow, though, I made it through that party without tasting any Pine Ridge wines.  Nor had I since, until now.

As part of another terrific TasteLive (online tasting with video of winemakers and built-in Twitter feeds) event, four of Pine Ridge's current releases were sampled.  In brief, the Cabs outclass the whites, even if the prices are strictly special occasion for most folks.  For the Cabs, in what is likely attributable to the vintage, these two wines are surprisingly approachable in their youth - especially the Stag's Leap, which typically needs years more in the bottle or a day or two open before drinking.  While the Stags Leap Cab is exemplary in its quality, the regular Napa Cab won be over for its comforting enjoyability.

Overall a strong lineup holding little risk for those with thick enough wallets to get past the hefty cover.

(Disclosure: these wines were received as press samples.)

2010 CheninBlanc/Viognier California $14
Superlight pale straw color.  Crisp, inviting nose with tropical honeysuckle fruit in abundance.  Closer to demi-sec that I care for, but it does finish clean.  A well made summer/spicy Thai food quaffer.

2009 Chardonnay Carderos Dijon Clones $30
Serious business nose gives way to an attack delivering smoke, oak, and intrigue.  But the expectations the nose created for a monster Chard turn out to be misguided.  Mid palate is thin, lean, and decidedly European in style.  Body expands as it comes to room temp along with acidic clarity.  Looking for an austere Burgundy from Napa?  This could be for you.

2008 Cabernet Napa Valley $54
Note: decanted 5 hours before tasting. Whoa.  Sexy looking.  Enticing vanilla wafts from the glass.  Decanting has softened this already approachable wine significantly - and to its benefit.  Supple texture, lovely balance, and a leisurely walk through its dimensions await the palate.  Medium to full bodied and very pleasant t a deeper level than expected.  Easy to love because it is, well, lovely.

2008 Cabernet Stags Leap District $80
Note: decanted 5 hours before tasting. Now we're in serious territory.  Expensive looking (how do they do that?).  Refined.  Also enjoying the time decanted.  Italian Cashmere texture welcomes you into the Cabernet Boudoir VIP Room, though you wonder how you got past security.  Oh, right...you paid your hefty cover ($80!).  Real depth, structure, and complex acids are dressed up in a lithe evening dress.  Undeniably terrific even at this very young age.