Monday, April 24, 2017

Schiava: The Antidote

Dominating, dense wines of unxious extraction have become the norm these days. Certainly they have their place, though, for this aging palate, they are simply too instense as an everyday experience. Behold the antidote.

Schiava (aka vernatsch aka trollinger) is a grape that yields a red wine of uncommon clarity, both in terms of luminescence as well as flavor.  While five shades lighter than Burgundy, the bright fruit shines honestly, thanks in large part to the prominent, clean acidity framing the picture, and a mercifully modest alcohol level. 

Every single example of this wine I've had has been rewarding - and from the Alto Adige region of northern Italy.  That kind of consistency is remarkable. To boot, you'll find it for around $14 a bottle, and not more than $20. So little of it makes its way to the United States, but that matters not a bit. Find a bottle - any bottle will do - and treat yourself to the bracing relief of the antidote: Italian mountain wine.  

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