Wednesday, March 25, 2020

A Silly Wine For Serious Times

Some wines command respect for their elegance or craft or balance, like the way an evocative work of art affects you.  They are serious wines, either by tone or by quality.   At the far opposite end of the seriousness spectrum are cheap thrill wines; flashy wines that deliver gregarious characteristics that, when concentrated, impart a caricature-like silliness.  They are also a ton of fun to drink. 

I used to refer to this category of wines as mopeds because deep down you really want to take onbe for a ride - just as long as no one is watching.  In a universe of virtually unlimited, more serious options, indulging in cheap thrills feels like, well, indulging in cheap thrills.  And if ever there was a moment, this is it.


NV A to Z Bubbles Oregon $16/$20
The silliness of drinking a wine like this at a time like now is inescapable. And therein lies it’s equally inescapable pleasure. From the whimsical, over-the-top packaging to its riotous, straight-out-of-a-focus-group color, into its fruit-powered palate, and in every one of its oversized bubbles, this is an unapologetically boisterous and fun wine. Don’t look for sophisticated layers of dimension framed by crunchy acidity. Instead, just surrender to the near absurdity of this wine's obviousness and you’ll find you can’t help but smile. Available in a clear 750ml bottle ($16) capped with a crown closure or in cute 250ml cans ($20).


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