Monday, April 27, 2020

Sicilian Delights - Tasca d’Almerita Tenuta Regaleali

So terrific, broadly-appealing, and well-priced, the regular, entry level bianco from this producer was our house white last summer. We must have gone through a couple of cases, turning many friends and neighbors into Sicilian white converts. So, when this quartet of samples from the same producer showed up, curiosity and excitement got them a bump in the review queue.

Below are notes on two reds and two whites, with the formers still young and the latters well worth your efforts to seek out as we forge ahead into porch season. These are all fairly priced right around $20, but the much lower priced bianco (linked to above) is likely to be a repeat house white this summer - it's just awfully tough to beat for the money.  Most importantly, these wines serve as encouraging signposts for further exploration in Sicilian wine.



2017 Regaleali Perricone Guarnaccio $20
Made in a rustic style, this deeply consonant red’s mouth-coating tannins give it a good grip. Flavors from hillside brush and wild herbs dance behind the firm fruit, and give way to a taut finish that suggests companionable harmony at the dinner table - and longevity. Longs for a hearty Genovese - and some more time in the bottle. 

2016 Regaleali Nero d'Avola Lamùri $20
The clarity and depth of the color are beguiling; deep garnet that somehow transmits light brilliantly. The clean, almost austere nose leads into a palate exhibiting the coyness of youth. The tannins are prominent and still firm, but cannot disguise the character of fruit that lies beneath. Mouth-coating, chalky tannins lined with minerals add to the brooding depth.  There’s a vigor here that will no doubt give away to supple balance over time. In the meantime, the energy is spring-like and iridescent. Patience will be rewarded. 

2018 Regaleali Catarratto Antisa $22
Oh, my! My inner wine nerd just woke up and it’s Christmas morning. This wine is so many things at once, all of them wonderful, and all of them in miraculous, understated balance. Platinum blonde-colored and with a coy nose, first impressions on the palate are dazzling: white flower petals, minerality, and a faint salinity entrance not just for their harmonious coexistence, but because each is discernible without any characteristic having to raise their voice. The focused acidity ties everything together on the finish, making this easy to peg as the regular bianco’s elegant, sophisticated mother. Makes you want to board the next flight to Palermo.

2018 Regaleali Grillo Cavallo delle Fate $20
If the regular bianco (mentioned above) shaved its legs, did its do, and got dressed up for a night on the town, it would look and taste something like this grillo. Focused minerals lay atop a vibrant, light weight fruit body framed by crisp, unobtrusive acidity - all in deft balance. Elegant, honest, and versatile. This wine now holds the awards for fastest emptied bottle in our household.


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